I received a great question and thought I would share it with you along with my answer.

So here’s the question:  What do you think is the simplest system to use for a reef tank?

I think I will make a video answer to this question and post it on the blog for others, because

keeping things simple is one of the most important things to learn in reef keeping, and yet also one

of the most challenging to accomplish.  Again, great question.

Here’s my answer:
As for what is the simplest system for a reef tank, I would have to say it depends on three factors:
1) the size of the tank, how heavily it is stocked with small-polyped stony corals (SPS);
2) how much time (work) you want to spend per week maintaining it; and
3) how much effort you are willing to put into setting it up (installation)

So, of course, I am biased.  I like larger systems that maximize stocking density and diversity of all kinds of corals and fishes.  And I like to take my time setting it up so that it is as easy as possible to maintain (I’m lazy) and so that it is designed to prevent problems (this last one is one of my greatest talents).

If you are just getting started and your tank is less than 200 gallons, and not heavily stocked yet, you can get away with just doing water changes.  A good quality reef salt will help maintain your pH, alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and all other levels, by simply doing frequent water changes.  If water changes is your only method of maintaining water quality, then you will want to do roughly 50% or more per month, done weekly.  So, for example, if you have a 100-gallon system, and you are doing 50% water change per month, then you could do one water change per week of 12.5 gallons.  Thus after four weeks, you will have changed 50% of the system’s water.  The down side to this approach is that you will go through more salt (higher cost) and it requires weekly water changes (more time).  We maintained a 250-gallon reef tank (all soft corals) for many years with great success, using this approach.  Because this system had great water movement and high flow rates (10x system volume/hr) and strong lighting (3 x 400w HQI metal halides 10,000K), strong protein skimming (ETS1400), stable water temperature (chiller), and it grew soft corals like crazy.  It was very simple.

The Jaubert method is OK as long as your sand bed is deep enough and that you use a fine enough substrate, and as long as it can keep up with the calcium/magnesium demand of the corals in the system.  I would say that the Jaubert method is best suited for systems that are not heavily stocked with fast-growing stony corals.  Systems that are heavily stocked with the faster-growing small-polyped stony corals (SPS corals) will need a more aggressive dosing approach than the passive Jaubert method.

Another very simple way to help maintain calcium, magnesium, and alkalinity is by use of a fluidized bed sand filter that is filled with aragonite sand (0.5-2.0mm particle size I recommend Carribsea’s “Sea Floor Special Grade Reef Sand”).  It is very cheap and very low maintenance and will help to maintain calcium, magnesium, and alkalinity.  You will need to refill (top off) the fluidized sand filter about every 4-6 months as the substrate will dissolve over time.  This is also a very efficient biological filter.  Depending on the size of the fluidized sand filter (the bigger the better – you cannot over size it), this method is best suited for a higher stocking density of corals than with the method of just doing water changes.

Another very simple method is to use one of the liquid two-part products administered with a two-part dossier (usually also sold by the manufacturer of the liquid 2-part product).  We have used the B-Ionic product (by ESV) with great success, along with their liquid 2-part dossier.

So when considering what is the simplest method for keeping or setting up a reef tank, remember the following factors:

1) the size of the tank, how heavily it is stocked with small-polyped stony corals (SPS);
2) how much time (work) you want to spend per week maintaining it; and
3) how much effort you are willing to put into setting it up (installation)

If you have a method you love for it’s simplicity, we’d love to hear about it.  Post a comment and let us know what is working for you to keep things simple.

Thanks.

Warren Gibbons

Technorati Tags: calcium, Dosing, Jaubert, liquid 2-part, magnesium, reef tank, small-polyped stony corals, water changes

A while back I posted on a method for bryopsis algae control, that involved using Kent Marine’s product Kent Tech-M. And in that post, I also told you that one of the exhibits in my care was a 900-gallon reef tank with a persistent bryopsis algae problem, and that I was about to use this method to eradicate the bryopsis algae from my tank.

And . . .

Drum roll please. . . . . . . . .

It worked!

Yes, it worked quite well. Before treating the tank with the magnesium supplement (Kent Tech-M), we did the following important steps to prepare:

PREPARATION STEPS
Step 1: performed two 35% water changes to help up the magnesium level to the normal 1,300ppm and to lower the phosphate level;

Step 2: Manually plucked/removed as much bryopsis as possible while the water level was down (during the water change). We did this during both water changes over a period of one week.

Step 3: stormed the tank with a powerhead on a stick to help get as much detritus out of the tank as possible. We have 4 filter socks in the sump that catch it quite efficiently;

Step 4: Replaced the Rowaphos media (a.k.a. ferric oxide) in our chemical filter (Precision Marine SR55P Professional Series Substrate Reactor), which helps to insult and stress out the bryopsis algae.

Step 5: Began dosing kalkwasser (saturated solution of calcium hydroxide and R.O. water), which precipitates out phosphates so that the protein skimmer can remove them. It also elevates the pH to 8.3-8.5, which helps inhibit the growth of unwanted algae such as bryopsis and hair algae. And kalkwasser also helps to elevate alkalinity, which also helps inhibit unwanted algae.

Step 6: Turned off the activated carbon filter. This is just a hunch, but since the active ingredient in Kent Marine’s Tech-M magnesium supplement is not known (that which eradicates the bryopsis), I certainly didn’t want the activated carbon to remove it. Originally, people felt it was the elevated magnesium level that was doing the work, but after multiple methods of raising the magnesium level produced inconsistent results, it was concluded that Kent Marine’s Tech-M product worked the best because of some mystery active ingredient.

Now that the preparation steps were completed we were ready to begin dosing the Kent Tech-M (magnesium supplement). The main instructions are to make sure that you do not raise the magnesium level by more than 100ppm per day.

So I went ahead with dosing the tank to raise the magnesium level by 100ppm per day until the magnesium level was between 1600-1800ppm, and in one week the bryopsis dropped to less than 50% of what it was before dosing. And by two weeks, 99% of the bryopsis was gone from the display tank. I was quite pleasantly surprised.

Overall it took 2 weeks and the Bryopsis is now gone. It is my feeling that the aggressive manual plucking/removal was a critical step to insulting/stressing the bryopsis. And remember we did this just prior to changing out the Rowaphos media (lowered phosphates to zero) and the subsequent dosing of the magnesium supplement.

We will see what time will tell. I have heard of the bryopsis coming back after a successful treatment, so the constant vigilence will continue – as it always does with a truly successful saltwater aquarium.

Please comment and share your experience with hair algae or bryopsis and how you went about it and what happened.

Technorati Tags: bryopsis, bryopsis algae control, chemical filter, chemical media reactor, hair algae, kalkwasser, kent tech-m, magnesium, rowaphos

There are all kinds of algae problems an aquarist can experience in keeping saltwater aquariums, particularly with reef tanks. But none of them can be as nightmarish as Bryopsis.

Unlike most other algae, such as hair algae or cyanobacteria, Bryopsis does not respond to most removal methods. Even a normal algae problem can be extremely frustrating or even lead to someone giving up and shutting down their tank. But that doesn’t have to happen. There is a solution and I’m going to share it with you here in just a moment.

Typically, most algae problems such as hair algae or cyanobacteria, can be solved with a combination of:
- elevated pH
- increased water circulation
- removal of phosphates and nitrates
- removal of detritus, and
- addition of algae grazers (tangs, hermit crabs, snails, emerald crabs, urchins, sea hares, etc.)
- manual removal by humans (i.e. plucking, scrubbing, siphoning, etc.)

But Bryopsis is different, as it does not respond to these methods. Actually, it can often grow even more because of such methods (especially manual removal, which can feed asexual reproduction via fragmentation). And even biological controls such as adding grazing invertebrates and tangs is not only not very effective with Bryopsis, but it can be expensive (them critters ain’t cheap).

I wish I could say it was my idea – far from it. In fact, I have been dealing with a bout of Bryopsis recently in our 950-gallon saltwater reef exhibit at the Ocean Explorium, where I am Curator. And I was researching solutions to my problem when I cam across this solution. Here’s the link.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1113109&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

It explains the whole process in fair detail, with photos of results, showing the Bryopsis dying off and disappearing as a result of the treatment. I’ve also done more research on this method (thank you google) and it has actually been widely used with consistent successful results. And yet, it is a mostly unknown method.

Most people who get cursed with a Bryopsis algae outbreak, work like crazy for long periods of time, getting very frustrated, and still not even make a dent in the problem. Bryopsis algae outbreaks are usually caused by a new addition, where the algae comes in as a hitch hiker on a new coral or piece of live rock, or even a snail shell. So I’m glad I found it and even more glad to share it with you. Please be sure and share it with your friends too.

The method uses increased Magnesium levels for three months (1600ppm compared to the normal 1300ppm), to bring the Bryopsis to its threshold for binding Magnesium. This causes the Magnesium to then perform as an enzyme inhibitor, making the Bryopsis shut down and die off. Once this happens, the grazers in your saltwater aquarium will clean up the remains.

Point of caution: Be sure not to raise the Magnesium level by more than 100ppm per day.

Please post a comment here on the blog to share your feedback, or to tell your story if you are having any problems or frustrations with your saltwater aquarium. We would love to help you out in any way we can.

Technorati Tags: algae, algae removal, bryopsis, bryopsis algae, cyanobacteria, hair algae, magnesium, problem solving, reef tank, saltwater aquarium